California Surfing
I blame Brian Wilson. I really do! Brian Wilson was the fonder member and leading songwriter for the Beach Boys. His hypnotic music and idealized portrayal of California surfing lifestyles sent 'good vibrations' all over the land and down the decades. He single handedly created the myth and the community that is modern day California surfing. Sure we have the waves the weather and the Pacific washed beaches, but you have to grow into it. It isn't something that you just show up to and jump in.
If you are California coast born and bred it is your birthright to cut classes and head for the surf with some food some water and your old board. And if the conditions are really bad you've still got the drama of the ocean and the beaches that is a world away from the all those states surrounded by other states, untouched by the sea breezes.
We learned early that it's not just a case of finding the beach and away you go. Like every other sport the venue has to be right and not knowing this is going to ruin your surfing before you start. Those who know about California surfing will tell you that to get the best waves it has to be the beaches of Southern California, those of the Santa Cruz area are a real favorite. You can tell which are the best beaches as they will have surfers on them probably every day so it's a safe bet that an isolated or quiet beach is that way because the waves are not good or there is a danger from sharks. If in doubt, move on.
The next step is to get familiar with the beach locals. This particular form of marine/costal wildlife is native to California surfing beaches and its familiar name is the 'surfer'. Normally found in packs or groups these sleek, dark skinned creatures have a culture and behavior code that is unique to their species. They will defend their chosen beaches and the mood of the pack can vary and does depending on the particular beach area you have chosen and also your surfing prowess. If you feel that the prevailing mood is accepting and you abide by the surfing code, for example keeping to your own space and being careful that you don't steal a wave, you'll be ok, but the pack will leave you in no doubt if your presence is not welcome. If in doubt, move on.
All in all, California surfing is not something to fear, but something to behold. If you are fortunate enough to attend a California surfing competition, you will see some of the best surfers in the world compete at an outstanding level. For many, surfing is an infinite love affair with the sea, and the reason many guys who would ordinarily hold down regular jobs, drop everything and court it so regularly. Many say that California surfing is the closest thing to spirituality they have found, and it may just be.
Tagged with: California • Ocean • recreation • sports • Surf • Surf Boards • Surfing • Tide • Water Sports • Waves